| Mt. Moriah is the real name of the cemetery, but as a place where many of its occupants died with their boots on, its nickname is more apt. Also buried up there is Deadwood's infamous madam, Dora DuFran, who was buried with her parrot, and Potato Creek Johnny, whose gold nugget weighing 7 3/4 troy ounces fanned further gold fever. Nearby is Preacher Smith, who tried to save some of these poor souls and died trying. Standing high on Boot Hill, you have a bird's eye view of Deadwood and the results of gold mining on the mountains. Still active after more than a century, the Homestake mine not only has drilled nearly a mile down for gold, but is also responsible for open cut surface mining. One hillside still bears naked witness to this type of mining, even as young evergreens attempt to regain a foothold on the eroded mountainsides. No wonder the Indians weep with fury at the rape of their sacred lands. After all, it was the Sioux who had named the area the Black Hills because of the dense ponderosa pines that covered the five million acres of mountains, making them look black to riders coming across the plains. Today this vast wilderness contains eight caves, five national parks, two dozen mountain towns, miles of scenic drives, lakes, waterfalls, vistas, and teeming wildlife. So don't be surprised to find a buffalo sauntering down the road. As we came around a hairpin turn, we encountered a bull bison on his quest for water, which he finally found in a gully next to the road. Just remember these animals are big and dangerous and always have the right of way. At the foot of the Black Hills lies Rapid City, which Dakotans proudly call the Star of West, and many people use it as their base to explore the mountains. Major attractions, from Mount Rushmore to Devil's Tower, are easy day trips from this gateway city. But Rapid City itself is worth exploring since it has made a serious effort to not only preserve the historic but to pursue the 21st Century. There is something for everybody, from pow wows and rodeos to Ellsworth US Air Force Base Air and Space Museum. And anyone who collects Plains Indian artifacts has to stop at Prairie Edge (www.prairieedge.com), in a beautifully restored downtown block, if only to browse in a store that has the authentic feel of an Indian Trading Post. Bear Acrobatics For people with or without kids, nothing beats a day at Bear Country, USA (www.bearcountryusa.com), a drive-through wildlife park that allows visitors to see elk, big horn sheep, buffalo, timber wolves, grizzlies, and the largest private collection of black bears up close. Be prepared to fall in love with the cubs that scamper from tree to tree like circus acrobats. Snake lovers usually head to Reptile Gardens (www.reptile-gardens.com) with its unique blend of botanical gardens of 50,000 flowers and daily crocodile shows. This is also the city that thrives on its unique jewelry made from Black Hills gold. So a couple of hours spent visiting the jewelers at their various factories is a must, especially to see the motifs of grapes and grape leaves molded from rose, green, and yellow gold and to learn how they were inspired by an old prospector's near death experience more than 100 years ago. Even better, you will find some of the best gold prices anywhere. Among the many factories, Landstrom (800-334-0157) has been justly famous for their pieces since 1878. If all this shopping has given you an appetite, this is the time to be an all-out tourist and try one of the many BBQs. One of the most fun is the Fort Hays Chuckwagon supper and show (www.rushmoretours.com) four miles south of Rapid City on the former set of Dances With Wolves. For $14 you'll get a rootin' tootin' show and BBQ beef, potatoes, baked beans, applesauce, ranch biscuits, spice cake and coffee. (If you come for breakfast, come at 6:30 am to beat the crowds for the 99-cent all-you-can-eat pancakes.) Or maybe you'll be hankering for something a little more sophisticated after your day out in the Dakota wilds. Then head back to Jake's atop Deadwood's Midnight Star for a dinner that will empty your wallet ($150 for four), but will give you better than average food, great service, and a beautiful restaurant. My only warning to people used to fine dining -- it hasn't yet arrived in the Dakotas, so lower your expectations and you will enjoy yourself.There were three of us at the blackjack table. The player at first base was having a pretty good run. Twenty minutes earlier he had bought in for $200 and was betting "quarters". Now he had close to $2000 in front of him and had just placed a $400 bet. He was dealt 7/7 against the dealer's 4 up. |
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